The Actual Cost of a Salvage Door

Door

Salvage Door:  $40, plus tax.

Ferry trip to get to the mainland and back with the door:  $58

Gas:  $8

Tools

Tool wear and tear:  $5

Fasteners

Fasteners and miscellaneous hardware:  $2.50

Doorknob and deadbolt:  Free, just use the existing crappy ones so all the keys still match.

Fir

1×6 Douglas Fir planks:  $112.  (For that price, next time I’ll just cut down a tree)

Dentist Pick

Labor:  Free, though in all fairness, in the time it took me to fix up this door I could have watched District 9, Gladiator, Season 6 of The Shield, the extended versions of all of the Lord of the Rings movies, Skyfall and Casino Royale.

Dowel

Dowel:  Free, I got dozens lying around for scrap.

The correct size dowel that you don’t have lying around and have to go buy at the hardware store:  $4.35

Sanding Discs

22 Festool sanding discs:  $16.50

Stain

 

Stain, primer, paint, and about 24 feet of frog tape:  $54.67 (that frog tape is a little steep)

Cat

Cat in a sink:  Free.  Good luck washing your hands.

Hinges

Solid brass hinges in Oil Rubbed Bronze (TM) that will never ever rust:  $75.

Asymmetry

Amount of sleep I’ll lose because the door is asymmetrical:  0.0 hours.

Priceless

Using the old door for thrown weapons practice:  Okay, that is priceless.

 

Even More Shop Work

One thing I’ve always wanted to do with my table saw is really seal up the interior so sawdust doesn’t get all over the place.  In my former shop, I used to have it boxed in and connected to a vacuum hose, but that was really ineffective and I kept tripping over the hose.  So now I basically have the housing all sealed up and I put a bucket underneath it.  It actually works really well, except that I never did seal up the backside.  That’s where the motor and the pulley pokes through making it difficult to really seal up.

Well, I finally got around to making a back plate that should cut down on the sawdust considerably and not interfere with the motor and pulley.  I was going to go with sheet metal but I didn’t want anything that could damage any moving parts.  I needed something soft, yet firm.  And cheap and easily accessible.  I ended up going with cardboard.

template

I marked everything really carefully so if I have to remake it (out of a different material if I so desire) it will be easy to do.  Cardboard is soft enough that it won’t damage anything should something go wrong, and firm enough to hold its shape.

Fitting

There you can see it’s a tricky fit.  The holes are for the rods that hold the motor, and that slot on the right is where the pulley goes.  Everything is looking great, but I do wish I had something I could use to make it a little stronger, to help it withstand the rigors of a shop.

what to use

Hmm.  I wonder what I can use?

how about duck tape

Hmm…

Oh, I know!  Duck tape!

panel

Handyman’s secret weapon!!  Oh yeah, now that thing is pretty much waterproof.  I’ll probably never have to replace it.  It might last longer than my table saw.

installed

I am happy to report that I can now rip down a 2×4 and not cover my entire shop floor with a spray of fine yellow powder.  This contraption cut down on the dust piles by at least 75%.  Yeah, I still get some.  That’s okay.  Wouldn’t be a shop without sawdust all over everything.

Shop Work

view

This is the view from my shop.  This is what I see when I look up from whatever I’m working on.  Whenever I think this house is falling apart faster than I can fix it, whenever I despair that there’s so much wrong with it that I’ll never get it all done, this is a wonderful reminder of why we moved here and why we live here.  Today is the 2nd anniversary of when we bought the house, and as much of a challenge as it’s been, I have loved every day of it.

shopSo yeah, with a view like that, it’s no mystery that I like to spend a little time working on the shop itself.  It’s my base; it’s where I go to repair old work or create new things, and practice my craft.  Here, all things are possible.  Here, there is nothing I can’t do.

table legs

It makes sense to me that I want my shop as good as it can get.  That bench used to be on some old sawhorses I made two hundred years ago.  They were sturdy enough, but I like a bench that is the exact same height as the table saw.  This way, when I cut lumber on the saw it can just slide onto the table.  That’s called a Return Feed Table.  I’m happy that I have enough space for a big one like that.  Plus, I can now work on things without my lower back complaining from bending over all day.

plans

Two years later, and I still have about 500 board feet of construction lumber up at the shed.  Some of it is exposed to the weather and it’s getting mossy and green, which I actually don’t mind.  I like the weathered look.  Today I decided to take down some 2×12’s and make them into brackets for a side table next to my bench.  Not only will this thing be nice and sturdy, but the brackets keep any table legs out of the way so I can keep things under it, and I can also clean back there a lot easier.

saw

I really need to cut these as accurately as I can.  There’s two angled cuts there, and if they don’t make a precise 90 degree angle the table is not going to be flat.  I want my tables flat.  It’s the least I can ask of them.  Working with construction lumber can be like measuring with a micrometer, marking with chalk and cutting with an axe.  No matter how careful you are, the wood is a little bowed and knotty and not all the same thickness and the sides aren’t even really straight.  Yeah, I could put it all through the planer, but what’s the fun in that?

sanded

Now, here is what I really like about weathered wood.  The piece on the right is as I found it outside, and on the left is sanded.  I don’t sand it perfect, just enough to give it some smoothness and get most of the dirt and mold off it.  It comes out looking random and naturally distressed.  And it’s still a very, very strong beam.

wood

So I got all the pieces cut and I think this week I’ll get a coat of finish on it and let it cure for a couple days before I affix it to the wall.  The shop is really coming up great, the workflow is good and there’s lots of space to spread out and get things done in there.  I’ll be ready to start making some kitchen cabinets real soon.

bruce lee

I’ve also added a lot of trim and shelves and hooks in the garage.  I’m just using rough cedar and leftover T-111 boards for the trim.  For a garage, they work great!  You may have noticed the punching bag that hangs in the corner from previous pictures.  It’s not just for looks.  About once a week, or every other week, I’m using it for a workout.  I spend some of the toughest 48 minutes of my life in front of that bag.  We use our garage for a lot of things.  I think it’s worth it to fix it up nice.

 

 

New Bathroom Countertop

Quartzite Countertop

 

Like most everything that came with this house, the bathroom sink and countertop was ready to be replaced.  It was one of those one piece resin things, and the resin was becoming cracked and moldy and leaking and just all sorts of awful.  We had one like that in Denver and we lived with it for ten years.  We finally replaced when we got ready to sell the house and we wondered why we had lived with the old crappy one as long as we did.

So up there is our new countertop, a nice pretty quartzite that should last about 4,000 years.  All I have to do is drill two holes in it and I can install the faucet.  I thought I had to drill three holes but it came with one pre-drilled so that was a bonus.

Template

To drill the holes, first you make a template.  You need a diamond tipped hole saw to cut through stone like that and it helps to have the correct size hole saw (unlike the one the fricking jerks at Lowe’s sold me) (“Oh yeah, don’t forget to buy a diamond hole saw on your way out, sir.  It needs to be 3/4″ diameter, sir.”  “Okay, Mr. Lowes Salesman, I’ll buy a 1″ diameter diamond hole saw just to make sure it’s big enough.” “That would be swell, sir.”)  (Then I get back on the island and realize I need a 1 1/4″ hole saw and the one I bought was too small and no one on the island sells diamond tipped hole saws.)

But I digress.

Use your correct size hole saw to cut straight through the plywood at the same distance from the edge you want your faucet holes to be.  This way, you just line up the template with the edge of the stone and you use the plywood hole as a guide.  Also, cutting through stone requires some water for lubrication, to help cut through the stone without creating so much heat that you melt your expensive hole saw.

To make sure the water doesn’t seep out of the bottom of the plywood, you take some plumber’s putty and make a snake.

Snake (named Bob)Don’t get too attached, though, because the snake will probably not survive.  So don’t give him a name or anything.  Wrap the snake in a circle around the underside of the plywood.

Snake around hole

 

Now, when you clamp the plywood to the stone, the snake makes a watertight seal and you can fill the hole with water.

Filled with water

 

This is a dirty job.  Water and powdered quartzite will splash around in a 20′ radius and cover everything with little white dots that don’t clean up easy.  Do this outside if you can.

Dirty JobThat’s what a hole saw looks like, by the way.  Take your time with this step.  Let the drill do the work, don’t press it.  You’re kind of wobbling it down, rocking it up and down to let the stuff you’re digging up work its way out.  Periodically, take the saw out and cool the tip in cold water, replace the water in the hole, and just rest a bit.  If you try to hurry this step up, you can break your expensive quartzite countertop.

Poor snakeYeah, the snake doesn’t make it.  But that’s okay, you can make more with plumber’s putty and play with them later.

Begone trash

 

And there’s the old one, out with the trash where it belongs.  It didn’t even give up much of a fight taking it out.  I think it knew its time was up, and it was ready.  The new one is in and it’s great.  Will post some pics of it all later.

 

 

 

 

How To Cut a 20 Foot Long Piece Of Lumber

Rip Cut

So I have this piece of rough hewn cedar leftover from the garage construction.  It’s about 1″ thick and 10″ wide, and 20 feet long.  Yes, 20 feet long.  Hell, until I moved to Orcas I didn’t even know they made trees that high.  I can’t imagine what it cost.  I held onto it, of course.  You see, woodworkers are also wood collectors, and the more active ones can accumulate 35 pounds of scrap wood per month.  We keep it all.  You never know when you’ll need a piece of wood just that size.

twenty feet long

Well, it turns out I did need this 20′ monster beam for some trim work, but it needed to be 5 1/2 inches wide.  All I’d need to do is run a saw blade in a straight line all down it’s full length.  That’s called a rip cut, when you cut along the length of a beam of wood.  I was going to do this on the table saw and I even set everything up and then decided that was absurdly unsafe.  It would have gone down as one of the top ten stupidest things I’ve ever done.  That’s a tough list to get on, believe me.

Wood is normally solid and strong, but at that length it’s like a heavy, floppy piece of rubber with the added benefit of generating skin-boring splinters.  One dry run over the table saw (with the blade down and the saw unplugged) and I could see right away there was no way the wood would remain straight and flat on the table surface.  It would bow, twist, bend, and just generally be a turkey.  The table saw blade could bind and shoot the lumber into the air like a 20′ bullet, or pieces could splinter off in an exploding grenade fashion, or it could simply catch fire from the friction.  Yeah, dumb idea.

Festool Rocks

So, Festool to the rescue.  Their tools have a good combination of safety, accuracy and comfort.  Their plunge saw is pretty good and I have a little rail system that keeps it in a straight line and puts the saw blade exactly where you want it to go.  Just to be safe I first cut halfway through the lumber, then made a second pass all the way through.  The rails ensured each cut was in exactly the same place.  The final cut was seamless, with nary a saw mark along its length.

Because my rail is about 1/6 of the length of the lumber, it took a few passes to get through the whole thing.  And fortunately the beam didn’t want to pinch together when it was cut apart.  Wood sometimes does that, since wood fibers are like a series of little springs.  This particular board spread apart when cut.  That was lovely.  Sometimes it wants to pinch together, and you have to use little wedges and spacers as you cut it apart.  Otherwise it will pinch the saw blade, causing it to bind and creating a very unsafe place to be.

Panoramic Shop

There’s a panoramic pic of the whole thing (click on it to see full size).  It ran the entire length of the back of my shop.  I know you non-woodworkers are shrugging your shoulders like it’s no big thing, but to me this is one of those milestones, like bench pressing 365 pounds, or making homemade tamales for the first time.  It’s a woodworking thing.  You wouldn’t understand.

I dont understand

Sword Rack

fogIf you’re like me, you have a large number of Japanese swords cluttering up your house.  All manner of Nihon-to, katana, bokken and shinsakuto edged weapons just leaning against walls or lying on the floor like a trip hazard. I really needed to do something about this.  Storage space is hard to come by in this house so I thought my best bet was to design a wall mounted sword rack.

The PlansThere’s not much wall space in the house either, but there’s a few spots I can mount at least one or two of my better blades as long as I keep the mount a little compact.  I didn’t want a traditional Japanese design either, and I came up with my own, something a little more modern.  Simple, though.  Fit and function are a lot more important than looks.

When designing something small, it can be helpful to make a full scale drawing of what you’re trying to make.  Drawing it out full scale really helps you see exactly what you have to cut out of wood.

More PlansI used a slab of 7/8″ burled rock maple.  It is not easy to saw and not very forgiving, but it is bulletproof.  The prongs that hold the sword tend to be the weak point of any sword rack – if the sword twists against that prong, it can easily snap.  This is why I like to use a really hard wood.  When you draw it out life size, you start to realize there are things you may not be able to do, and you adjust your design accordingly.

fit

 

I have a mortising machine that cuts square holes like that, but it broke on the first mortise.  Haven’t used it in over a year and I guess it was mad at me.  So I had to cut all four mortises by hand with chisels I haven’t sharpened in over a year.  I probably should have stopped and sharpened them but I know me, that would have taken all day.  I wanted to get this project done before moving on to another project.

village of toolsIt takes a village of tools to do even a small project like this, especially the smoothing, shaping and sanding.  I cut out a lot of that with a jigsaw (don’t own a scroll saw, and I’m not sure how a scroll saw likes an inch of rock maple anyway) and it was very rough after cutting.  I smoothed it out with rasps and files and a nice straight router bit where I could get it to fit.

wedgesWhen I have exposed tenons like that, I like to put a wedge in there for some added stability.  I don’t need them for structure, it’s only got to hold about 5 pounds of swords.  Could have made this out of cardboard and still had enough structure.  But wedged tenons not only look great but really make a strong joint that should never fail for the life of the piece.  Last time I made wedges, I needed about 84 of them for my desk, and I cut them all by hand.  Thankfully, the zero tolerance insert on my table saw lets me cut them on the saw.  The wedge goes flying once it’s cut out, but it’s small enough that it doesn’t hurt anybody.

keyholeI’ve never cut a keyhole like this before but it seemed like the best way to mount it to the wall (and saved me a trip to town looking for hanging brackets that would fit). It’s not a difficult cut to make on a router table.  The holes came out perfect and are actually stronger than I thought they would be.

 

finishedAnyway, all finished.  Two less swords to trip on now.  The top one is a crappy replica but it’s okay to train with.  The bottom one is a very real wakizashi, folded steel, and extremely sharp.  I’m going to re-do the handles on both of them and probably do some more work to that wakisashi at some point.  Another project for another day.

 

Measure fifteen times, cut once

Measure and MarkI’m making a jigsaw puzzle out of tongue and groove boards.  But first I have to cut the boards and make the tongues and grooves.  Some pieces have both tongue and groove on both sides, others have just tongues, others have just grooves.  If I mis-cut one piece, I won’t have enough left over to complete the project correctly.

 

Table Saw Restoration (part 3)

It is finishedAt long last, this beast is done.  Well, as done as it’s going to be for now.  There’s a few modifications I’ll eventually make to it – I’d like to button up the dust collection a little tighter and install a splitter or riving knife and get some kind of kickback preventer thing attached but for right now it works and it works great.

scratch and dentYeah, that’s the legendary Incra LS32-TS high precision fence attached to it.  Yes, I’m well aware that’s like putting a BMW steering wheel in a Plymouth Duster.  I can explain.  You see, my old table saw, also a Craftsman, came with this crappy, wobbly, tilted table saw fence.  Craftsman makes great tools, but their table saw fences are awful.  The thing never got the same distance twice.  It was never parallel to the blade.  It was not at a 90 degree angle to the table top.  It was a piece of crap and I hated it and lived with it for years.  With its help, I made dozens of lopsided pieces.  Every cabinet, every fireplace surround, every desk and table has at least ten flaws thanks to that effing thing.  I told myself this time I was going to treat myself to a nice fence, and my dart landed on that one.

I haven’t used the LS32-TS enough to write an informed opinion on it, but I am very pleased with it, even though I think they over-engineered the thing quite a bit.  And it is very difficult to calibrate.  Nonetheless, I look forward to many years of swearing at it enjoying its use.

miter gaugeAnd here’s a pic of the Incra miter gauge I had from my last table saw.  It sat disused in a corner until the thing rusted out on me, and I had to sand it down and paint it and restore it to usefulness once again.  That took me about two days but it’s better than spending the cash for a new one.  When you live on an island, you really go to great lengths to not waste anything.

nice bucketYou can laugh at my dust collection system all you want, but that 5 gallon bucket will catch a lot of sawdust that would normally just collect inside the thing.  I’ve tried putting a hose and a vacuum on my saw before but it was about as effective as a one legged man in a butt kicking contest.  The bucket is tightly sealed (by means of four bent nails; really high tech stuff!) to a cut piece of 1/4″ laminate on the bottom so there’s no gaps for the dust to get through.  The inside of the saw housing is sealed with enough duck tape to make Red Green proud.  Sawdust can still come out the back end and until I make a housing for it that will continue to happen.  But that bucket catches a surprising amount of debris, and it’s a handy container too.

motor rotation

Yeah, here in this pic you can see the bucket and maybe even some duck tape if you look closely enough.  I had a lot of fun painting and restoring the parts.  Even if the final product looks like a frankenstein saw (yes, it does, I won’t be offended if you say it) it was cool making everything fresh and new.

I put Kreg dual locking casters on the bottom so it can roll around.  Attached directly to the stand, the weight of this beast bent the metal legs (yes, I was very sad and frustrated when I saw it) and made it a little crooked, so I put a sheet of plywood down on the base and damn is that thing sturdy now.  Doesn’t budge at all when I lock all four casters and make cuts.  That thing rolls so smoothly that I just push it around the shop and ride on top of it shouting “Whee!” the whole way.

In the end, this was not unlike restoring an old car.  In fact, my knuckles are about as badly beat up from this project as they ever were from a ’72 beetle.  But unlike an old car, it’s not for show.  This workhorse is going to make a lot of sawdust over the next few years.  I have cabinets to make, and tables, and shelves, and wardrobes, and boxes and drawers and doors and even tools.  It’s been over a year since I’ve had access to a table saw in my wood shop, and I am anxious to crank out some projects.

cadillac of table saws

 

Table Saw Restoration (part 2)

Snail PaceFigured I’d start off with a photograph that represents the pace at which this project is going.  I am happy to say, though, that the list of parts I still need is down to one sheet of paper, and I now know where to find most of them.  Just need to spend some time on the internet with my credit card in front of me and everything will be on its way.

The table extensions came in.  These were really hard to find on the Sears website because they don’t actually go with my model of saw.  According to them, they don’t fit and won’t work with my model and if I attempt to install them on my saw it will shred the warranty, condemn me to a lake of fire in my afterlife and every cut I make on the saw will be unsafe and inaccurate.  But in reality, these are the best table extensions out there, and they fit like a charm.

I didn’t even need to use shims along the sides.  It’s dead flat.

Saw BladeMy new sawblade came in also, and it’s a beauty.  Those of you who are woodworkers know how much those things cost.  Those of you who are not, you don’t want to know.  This is certainly not the most expensive blade out there but Forrest makes great saw blades and this model is excellent for both cross cuts and rip cuts.  I am far too lazy a woodworker to change out my saw blades for each cut.  I like to have one blade for everything.

Oil PlugI also started dismantling the motor today.  All I was going to do was put a new power cord on it but the further along I got the more I wanted to keep taking it apart and cleaning it.  I found the two oil plugs underneath about a centimeter of sawdustdirtgrease, a paste like mixture of sawdust, dirt and oil.  I’m sure the motor was happy to get some fresh oil on it in there.

Then I started painting it.  I figured, what the heck.  I got nothing better to do and I have a third of a can of red spray paint that I may as well use.  Make that motor housing shine and gleam in the light of my overhead fluorescent shop lights.  It would not have been wise to spray paint the motor itself so I painted it by hand.  Dismantle

I have an illness.  I know.  I’m well aware that no normal person would clean and paint an old motor that’s just going to get covered in sawdustdirtgrease.  It’s madness.  This is a lot like restoring an old antique.  Or getting it ready for a museum.  This isn’t necessarily the table saw I wanted to have, but by golly it’s going to be the best dang table saw I can make it into.

Besides, the paint may keep it from rusting.

Paint

 

I had more paint in that can than I thought I did so everything got about ten coats.

More Paint

 

The motor I painted black, to kind of go with the red.

FaceplateThe last thing I tried to tackle today was the faceplate.  The existing one is a little cheesy looking and I wanted to make something with a smaller aperture where the tilt indicator comes out. A lot of sawdust leaks through that big slot and I want to kind of close that up on the final make.  Also, you can’t really see it in the picture but it’s coated with this layer of crackling plastic that is simultaneously peeling off and difficult to remove.  I thought I would just make a new faceplate out of 1/4″ laminate paneling, but once I got it cut and in place  ….

Hate thisI hate it.  I absolutely hate the way it looks.  I know Hate is a strong word, and that’s why I chose it.  It looks really tacky and I don’t think it will hold up well.  I’m going to seek out a small sheet of metal that I can work with.  Maybe brass or copper.  Heck, how about gold foil?  Platinum sheeting.  Apparently no effort is too great and no expense is too much for my table saw so I may as well go all out.

Hoping to have this thing up and running in about two weeks but it really depends on how fast things gets shipped out here.  It’s tourist season and I am in no mood to brave the lines at the ferry landing just for a trip to sears and home depot.

Table Saw Restoration (part 1)

 

Exploded ViewSo I was visiting with father in law the other weekend and I mentioned that I was looking for a table saw.  He said, and I quote, “well, your prayers have been answered.”  If by prayers he meant nightmares then I think he was spot on.

He was willing to part with his old table saw, a Craftsman model, probably from the Reagan administration.  It had been around the block more than a few times, ridden hard, hung up wet, and thrown from the back of a moving vehicle at a busy intersection (true story).  But like all things craftsman, it is a workhorse.

I was torn.  I really wanted to save up for a nice cabinet saw with tolerances that have a lot of zeroes in them.  But of course, they have price tags that also have a few zeroes, so after much deliberation I figured I’d do my best to restore this Craftsman and see what I could do with it.

Needs HelpThis thing was a mess and it needed help.  It was rusted, dented, gouged and beat up.  I started making a list of the parts it would need, then crossing off the things they no longer sold.  This started to turn into something like restoring an antique.  It’s the kind of thing I better enjoy doing, because it’s a lot more cost effective to just go and buy a new one.  Still, like many things, they don’t make them like they used to.  When I started taking this thing apart (and believe me, I dismantled it down to the last rusted lock washer), I saw that the parts were a little more solid than what you find in many new saws.  They cut corners these days.  The metal is a little thinner, the bolts are a little softer.

PaintedFirst thing I did was give it all a fresh coat of paint.  Several coats, in fact, of rust resistant enamel.  It came with what looked like after-market wheels on the base that I wasn’t sure would make it to the final build but I painted them just in case.  Father in law had mentioned those wheels were kind of crappy anyway.  NutsI even sanded, cleaned and hand painted the bolts that came with it.  Why would anyone waste time on such a ridiculous endeavor when you can buy perfectly good bolts at the hardware store for 10 cents each?  Well, these were pretty good bolts, all made out of hardened steel that you don’t always find at the hardware store.  And more importantly, they were the right size.  So it took two hours of my life to clean them and paint them, but the saw will fit together correctly.

ForeverNow the base and frame were a little dented but nothing a sledgehammer couldn’t smooth out.  The table top, though, was in really bad shape.  Rusted, dented, gouged, pitted – it looked like it had been dragged behind a car for a few miles and left for dead behind a liquor store.  I started in with the 80 grit sandpaper and quickly realized that sanding it smooth was going to take forever.  And you don’t want to sand to much because you don’t want to destroy the flatness of it.  At least not too much.  At the end of the day, I burned through about 40 discs of sandpaper just to get the rust spots off.

ImprovementAt last, after sanding it so much I blew a fuse, I deemed the surface to be adequate and ready for service.  Some of those deeper gouges I’ll never get out but at least wood will glide smoothly over it now.

It’s far from done.  I got the stand assembled and the top generally put together (I just got the bolts hand tight as I’ll want to calibrate it when I get a new saw blade) just so it’s not in two dozen pieces strewn about the shop.  Got enough going on in that shop to have to contend with that.

It still needs so many things.  I’d like some extension wings to make the surfaceShiny Feet a little bigger but so far I can’t find the right size.  Not even on the internet.  I think this thing is so old they stopped making parts for it.  I may have to make my own.  It needs a riving knife, a good fence, one of those fancy zero-clearance things for the blade, some kind of dust collection set up, and the motor needs a little electrical help (just gotta replace the melted power cable, nothing major).  But it’s almost there.  Just a few more hundred dollar bills and it’ll be a good little saw for the shop.

Assembled